Department of Anthropology

Clare Wilkinson-Weber

Position: Associate Professor
Office: VMMC 102C
Phone: 360-546-9574

Biographical sketch

I received a BA in Anthropology from Durham University, England, and a PhD in Anthropology from the University of Pennsylvania. My first book, Embroidering Lives: Women’s Work and Skill in the Lucknow Embroidery Industry, was published by SUNY Press in 1999, and my second book, Fashioning Bollywood: The Making and Meaning of Costumes in the Hindi Film Industry, has recently been published by Bloomsbury Academic Press (formerly Berg Press).

Articles on craft, film costume and the social transformation of costume production in popular Hindi film have appeared in Ethnology, Visual Anthropology Review, Anthropological Quarterly, Ethnography, and Journal of Material Culture. My work has also appeared in Global Denim, edited by Daniel Miller and Sophie Woodward, and Working in the Film and Television industries, edited by Andrew Dawson and Sean Holmes. A photo essay on the craftspeople that work on Hindi film costumes appeared in June 2013 in a special issue of the Indian art publication, MARG, to celebrate 100 years of Indian Cinema.

At WSU Vancouver I regularly teach classes on the Arts and Media in Global Perspective, History of Anthropological Theory, and Speech, Thought and Culture. I also teach the graduate core course on the Fundamentals of Cultural Anthropology.

I have an abiding interest in both the sciences and the humanities, and how they contribute to anthropology. A background in performing arts has proved very helpful in my research, although I have had regrettably (or happily, depending upon your perspective) few opportunities to put it into practice. I am an Associate of the London College of Music.

Research

My research interests are based in India and include the social processes of film production, with special focus on questions of the co-option of commodities in media industries, the cultures of workplaces, the making of film costume, fashion and performance in film, and the renegotiation of craft in the contemporary global economy. Throughout my career I have been concerned with how artists and makers in craft and media industries manage to assert their creative intelligence in less than ideal circumstances. Both the culture of production -- or the social networks and relationships that make up an art world -- and the shifts in knowledge and skill that underlie aesthetic expression are of interest to me. With Alicia DeNicola (of Oxford College of Emory University) I'm working on the theorization of craft in anthropology. In July 2012, we held a Wenner-Gren funded workshop WSU Vancouver for a group of anthropologists to compare and discuss their work on craft, and several spin-off projects are in the process of being launched (see Taking Stock link to left). For my purposes, a fresh look at craft from a range of ethnographic perspectives is the key to developing a coherent comparative context for understanding media and art production. I have recently begun investigating the relationship between the materiality of costume and the immaterial "realities" they help create on screen with Anthea Mallinson of Capilano University, with particular attention being paid to the labor-intensive processes of costume aging and distressing.

For the next stage of my research I am interested in exploring the industries that have grown up around Hindi film in the period of economic liberalization, specifically talent agency companies, graphic design and branding companies, and other enterprises that are, in various ways, now involved in the cultivation and management of film stars as commercial properties. The role of social media in these constructions is of particular interest, raising all kinds of new questions about the nature of star-fan interaction and star identities. Another project is to try to collect oral history accounts of the mid twentieth century industry from veterans in all filmmaking domains -- cast, crew, etc. -- a critical task given the paucity of written documentation of filmmaking, and the aging of this pioneering population whose work was conducted in the critical years before and after Independence.

Courses

Anth 301 Arts and Media in Global Perspective
Anth 350 Speech, Thought and Culture
Anth 390 History of Anthropological Theory

Research projects

Selected publications

Books

LNK Wilkinson-Weber, Clare M 2013. Fashioning Bollywood: Costume and Culture in the Hindi Film Industry. Bloomsbury Academic.
LNK Wilkinson-Weber, Clare M 1999. Embroidering Lives: Women's Work and Skill in the Lucknow Embroidery Industry. State University of New York Press.

Articles and Chapters

Wilkinson-Weber, Clare M 2013. India and Fashion's New Geography. In Fashion Cultures, 2nd edition, Stella Bruzzi and Pamela Church-Gibson (eds).
Wilkinson-Weber, Clare M 2012. Making Faces: competition and change in the production of Bollywood film star looks. In: Working in the Global Film Industries: Systems, Space, Patronage, and Creativity. Andrew Dawson and Sean Holmes (eds.). Bloomsbury Academic.
PDF Wilkinson-Weber, Clare M 2011. An Anthropologist Among the Actors. Ethnography.
PDF Wilkinson-Weber, Clare M 2010. Diverting Denim: The Ecology of Jeans in Popular Hindi Film,. in Global Denim, Daniel Miller and Sophie Woodward, eds. Berg Publishers.
PDF Wilkinson-Weber, Clare M 2010. A need for redress: costume in some recent Hindi film remakes. Bioscope, 1(2).
PDF Wilkinson-Weber, Clare M 2010. From commodities to costume: productive consumption in the making of Bollywood film looks. Journal of Material Culture, 15, (1): 1-28.
LNK Wilkinson-Weber, Clare M 2009. Costume in the films of Bimal Roy. In : R. Bhattacharya (ed) The Man Who Spoke in Pictures: Bimal Roy. Penguin India.
PDF Wilkinson-Weber, Clare M 2006. The Dressman's Line: Transforming the Work of Costumers in Popular Hindi Film. Anthropological Quarterly, 79, 4.
PDF Wilkinson-Weber, Clare M 2005. Tailoring Expectations: How film costumes become the audience's clothes. South Asian Popular Culture: Special Issue on Bollywood Audiences, 3(2), 135-160.
PDF Wilkinson-Weber, Clare M 2004. Women, work and the imagination of craft in South Asia. Contemporary South Asia, 13,3, 287-306.
Wilkinson-Weber, Clare M 2004. Behind the Seams: Designers and Tailors in Popular Hindi Cinema. Visual Anthropology Review, 20,2, 3-21.
LNK Wilkinson-Weber, Clare M 2003. “Textiles: Embroidery,” and “Swadeshi" in South Asian Folklore: An Encyclopedia, Margaret Mills, Peter Claus, and Sarah Diamond, eds. Routledge.
LNK Wilkinson-Weber, Clare M 2001. Gender, Handicrafts, and Development in Pakistan: A critical review. Pakistan Journal of Women's Studies, 8,2, 91-104.
LNK Wilkinson-Weber, Clare M 1997. Skill, Dependency, and Differentiation: Artisans and Agents in the Lucknow Embroidery Industry. Ethnology, 36,1, 49-65.
 
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